Baby rabbit care is a skill some rabbit owners need to learn quite unexpectedly. These little critters may surprise you by appearing in your rabbit hutch seemingly overnight. This is especially true if you're an owner of an unsterilized female or two.
Baby rabbits are called kits. They can come along if you have an unsterilised male and female pair or a misidentified male or female bunny that turns out to be of the other sex.
No matter how it happened, the babies are on the way or already here and you urgently need some baby rabbit care tips! Caring for these little balls of cuteness is now your main concern after all.
To bring your stress levels down a notch, let’s take a look at what you need to know to care for baby rabbits.
The first thing you’ll have to do is make sure mommy rabbit has a comfortable, safe place to have her babies. If you know the date she was mated, you can work out when she’ll need the nest. It is always a good idea to let her prepare the nest around 7 days before she is due. If you’re unsure, provide a nest as soon as she becomes restless.
Rabbits have a gestation period of 28 to 32 days regardless of breed size. This means that your rabbit will be pregnant for only a month before the babies arrive! Just before she's due she'll gather grass in her mouth to nest with. She'll also pull out the fur on her chest so don't panic when you see her plucking her own fur.
The nesting box size will depend on the size of the breed of rabbit you own. You can either build a nesting box yourself by searching for DIY rabbit nesting boxes, buy one on Amazon, or you can use something simple like a carton box with an entrance cut out just big enough for mommy to get in and out. (Keep in mind that you’ll probably have to disturb the babies every day to replace the carton box as it gets soggy.)
The nesting box should have a slight step to prevent the babies from getting out before they’re ready but still allow mom into the nest for feeding.
Once the nesting box is ready, provide lots of hay for your doe (female rabbit) to nest with and don’t panic if she starts pulling out her fur. Mother’s to be will arrange the hay to their liking and then line the nest with fur to keep the babies warm. This fur will usually come from her chest area and flanks.
If you notice that your bunny has built a nest but hasn’t lined it with fur after the babies are born, you can help her out by either holding her and pulling more fur for her to line the nest with or providing cotton wool to keep the babies warm. Make sure that the cotton wool or other material you provide as an alternative, isn’t stringy since such materials may be dangerous.
So you’ve given mom everything she needs to prepare for her babies, but what about your buck (male rabbit)? If you have an unsterilised buck, make sure you remove your male from the picture. Consider getting him fixed while your female raises the babies unless you’re a registered breeder.
It is very important to separate the male and female unless you want more babies in a month. Does can breed again even on the day they give birth! Doing so is unethical though, she at least deserves a little break before you plan to breed her again. Experts suggest that you wait 35 days to breed again.
In my opinion, there are enough rabbits in the world, so unless you have a specific reason to breed, just get your pets fixed.
If you’ve given mommy a nesting box and made sure she pulled enough fur to keep the babies warm, then the rest is up to her. All you can do on the day the babies are born is watch from a distance. If you interfere the mom might reject the babies or even eat them.
Make sure to avoid touching the babies until they are about 3 weeks old unless it’s an emergency. You can check on them to make sure they stay in the nesting box and that they’ve been fed. Their bellies will appear extended if they are full of milk.
If you find a baby outside of the nesting box, gently warm it in your hands if it is cold and then place it back into the nesting box with the others. Keep an eye to make sure the baby stays in the box.
If your doe gave birth in mid-winter, you can use a reptile heating pad to keep the nest toasty. The babies need to be able to move away from the heat if they want to.
Owners of new mother rabbits usually worry if the babies are being fed because they rarely if ever see mom near the kits. This is normal since rabbits kept some of the behaviours of their wild European ancestors. They will usually stay a good distance from the nest to keep the babies safe from predators, but they’ll still be watching.
The doe will usually only feed her young under the cover of darkness when she feels safe. The babies also only get fed once or twice a day, unlike puppies and kittens that need to be fed every two hours. Rabbit moms are very rarely seen with their kits.
Sparrow and babies by bonny_jean13
There's usually no need to worry, but you can check if the babies have full bellies. They will appear round and plump if they were fed and skinny when not fed. You can also keep an eye on the mom to see if she gets into the nesting box at least once a day. If the babies scatter around the cage or nesting area often, there is some cause for concern since they might be missing feedings.
You will need to make sure the babies are warm and then place them back into their nest. It might be necessary to upgrade the nest to prevent the babies from getting out.
Another way to check is to see if the mom is lactating. You will need to place your doe with her belly facing up on your lap. Find and then gently squeeze her nipple to see if any milk comes out. If you see a drop of milk, she’s definitely feeding her babies. If you can't seem to figure it out, take her and her babies to the vet for a checkup.
The vet will usually give the mom an estrogen shot to encourage motherly behaviour and lactation. In some cases, you will need to force the mom to feed her babies by holding her in a standing position over them. If that doesn’t work, you can either foster them with another rabbit mom (if you have one) or try to raise them yourself (not recommended).
Hand-rearing is not recommended when it comes to taking care of newborn baby rabbits. It is always better to attempt placing them with another lactating mother if you have two does that gave birth around the same time. If you don’t have another doe, you can attempt hand-rearing if it’s an absolute emergency.
Baby bunnies can be raised by feeding them goats milk or kitten formula. Before you attempt this, however, contact a veterinarian that has some knowledge of rabbits for advice. If it’s a wild rabbit you’re trying to save, first make absolutely sure that the mom isn’t close by feeding the baby at night.
Rabbit’s milk contains a lot of calories because the babies only get to feed once or twice a day. For this reason, it is a good idea to add 100% heavy whipping cream (make sure there’s no sugar added) to the kitten formula or goats milk.
It is very important to let the baby drink by itself. Force-feeding comes with the risk of aspiration (inhaling the milk). Use a syringe with a special nipple to allow the baby to drink. This way you can also track the amount.
Once the eyes are open and the babies are starting to explore adult food, you will need to feed them some of your adult rabbit’s cecotropes.
Cecotropes are the first soft, gell-like poos that a rabbit eats before making its usual round, dry poos. The cecotropes are very important since they contain healthy bacteria and nutrients that the babies will need to help them to develop the correct flora in their digestive systems.
Cecotropes are also excellent for treating weanlings with diarrhea. If the baby refuses to eat, mix two or three cecotrope pellets into the formula to feed the baby.
Baby rabbits will begin to eat solid foods when their eyes open at around 10 days old. Never try to feed them solid food before their eyes aren’t properly open. The babies will usually start to become curious and nibble on the hay in their nest when they are around 2 to 3 weeks old.
Just because the babies are eating doesn't mean you can wean them. Mommy rabbit will wean her young when they are around 6 weeks old or even older. She will gradually decrease feedings until they lose interest. Make sure you give her ample space to escape her babies during this stage.
For this reason, you should never force a baby rabbit to leave mom before it’s 8 weeks old. This is especially important in giant breeds. Rabbits under the age of three months should also never be fed any fruit or vegetables. It is best to give the babies access to unlimited hay. I would also suggest healthy, balanced rabbit food like rabbits pellets for vitamins and other nutrients.
It is best to avoid muesli, even in adult rabbits since it can cause digestive problems. Rather keep to rabbit pellets. These pellets are usually either made from timothy hay or lucerne. If you’re wondering about feeding your adult rabbits, you can check out our article on ‘How To Feed Your Rabbit’.
It is best to leave the nest alone and keep an eye from a distance. You should see mommy rabbit returning sometime during the night to feed her babies.
Baby rabbits should never be separated from their mother before they are at least 8 weeks old. This is very important in giant breeds since they mature much slower than dwarf breeds.
Baby rabbits are very fragile. It is best to leave them to their mom until they are around 3 weeks old. Rabbit babies of 3 weeks and older can be petted and gently handled.
Now that you know a bit more about baby rabbit care, you can finally relax a bit. Mommy rabbit should take care of most of the duties involved. All you have to do is provide a nesting area, nesting material, lots of food, fresh water and peace and quiet.
Keep an eye from a distance. If you notice any problems you can jump in to help. For more advice or if you have more questions, don't hesitate to comment below. I'll get back to you as soon as possible.
Happy Hopping!
Can rabbits eat banana like guinea pigs? This is a question that often pops up in the mind of new rabbit owners. As a rabbit owner, it is your responsibility to make sure your fluffy pet gets only the best after all. This means that you will need to know what fruits your bunny can and can’t eat.
You may have noticed that rabbits go bananas for some fruits, but can they actually eat banana fruit? In this article, we will discuss a rabbit’s love of of this fruit and what effect it will have on your fluffy friend’s health.
Now it’s time to go a bit bananas and get you some answers.
Rabbits can eat bananas, but it should be fed in moderation. This means feeding it as an occasional treat only. Banana may be rich in vitamins, magnesium and potassium, but they also contain a lot of sugar. Sugar can cause digestive upsets, dental problems and obesity in rabbits so make sure you feed the right amount if you don’t want to end up with a sick bunny.
Never feed a rabbit under the age of 3 months banana. Their digestive systems are still underdeveloped and the sugar content may make them very sick.
Banana, like guava, is a fruit that should only be fed as occasional treats. Fruits usually contain a lot of sugar that may lead to several kinds of problems in your bunny. The most common health problems associated with overfeeding fruit is obesity and digestive upsets.
So can rabbits eat this fruit or is it too risky? Fortunately, if done right, rabbits can eat fruits like bananas safely without any negative effects. The general rule for feeding any kind of fruit is one teaspoon of fruit per kilogram (2 pounds) of body weight no more than three times a week. Since banana is a fruit, this rule will apply.
Here are some tips for safely feeding banana to your rabbit:
It is very important to wash bananas properly before feeding them to your long-eared friends. Even better, buy organic bananas especially if you’re planning on feeding the skin as well. Pet rabbits are very sensitive to pesticides and can get very sick and even die if you aren’t careful. To remove pesticides, wash the banana in lukewarm water with some baking soda.
If this is the first time you’ll be feeding banana to your pet rabbit, you can start with a very small piece as an introduction to this fruit. The usual amount you can feed safely is 5.4 cm (2 ⅛ of an inch) per 2.3 kg (5 pounds) of body weight. Also, restrict feeding banana to two or three times a week.
Bananas can be fed with the peel on. The peel is good for rabbits, but only if it came from an organic source. Keep in mind that rabbits can get addicted to bananas so it is extra important to keep to the serving size.
Since you've googled 'Car rabbits eat banana' I'm assuming this is the first time you'll be feeding this fruit. Keeping an eye on your bunny friend after introducing a new fruit is very important.
If your furry friend has any negative reactions to the banana, you can step in before the situation becomes serious. 24 hours is usually a good amount of time to observe your rabbit before feeding more banana.
If you see any signs of discomfort or diarrhea, don't feed banana again until your bunny recovered. You can try again in a few months time. If your rabbit get's sick again, don't feed banana.
If the symptoms persist for more than a week, it is best to take your pet to the veterinarian. If nothing happens after the initial introduction, you can continue feeding this fruit, but do make sure not to overfeed!
Overfeeding can lead to complications such as obesity and gastrointestinal stasis (the gut stops working) which can be fatal to rabbits. Also, avoid overripe bananas since they contain more sugar.
Some fruits are safe with some conditions while other rabbit food can be fed freely. Bananas are one of the fruits that can be fed freely as long as you follow the correct portion size. Some parts, however, are better than others. Let’s take a look...
The parts of banana:
Bananas contain a lot of beneficial nutrients for rabbits. Some of these nutrients include:
Are you afraid your bunny will get addicted to bananas? No worries, you can try these fruits and vegetables as alternatives:
Also, keep in mind that fruits should not make up more than 10% of your rabbit’s weekly diet. It is also very important to check if fruit should be peeled and if the seeds are harmful. In the case of bananas, you can remove the peel if you want to avoid exposing your bunny friend to more pesticides. Hay is still the most important component in any rabbit diet.
The short answer here is no. Bananas are completely safe if fed in the right quantities. The problem lies with pesticides. If you feed a rabbit banana covered in pesticides, it may end up dead or seriously ill.
It is definitely possible, especially if fed to baby bunnies or too much at once. Bananas contain a lot of sugar which may upset a rabbit’s sensitive digestive tract. If you don’t keep to the serving size or feed baby bunnies under the age of three months banana, you will most likely end up with a sick rabbits.
Definitely, as long as the banana is pesticide-free and cut up into the correct serving size. Rabbits can consume both the peel and the flesh of the banana. In fact, they can even eat the banana plant!
Yes, the leaves are healthier than the banana. Leaves can be fed in large quantities and much more often than the fruit. If you have a banana plant, adding the leaves to your fluffy friend's diet daily is a very good idea. You can include it in the ration of daily leafy greens your bunny gets fed.
Some rabbits are a bit pickier than others. If your bunny doesn't eat the leaves, it's not the end of the world.
Yes, but only if the bananas were sourced from an organic farm. Pesticides on the peels can be very dangerous to bunnies, so if you're not sure, rather don't feed the peel. The peel isn't as nutritious as the actual food anyway so there is no loss.
Bunnies can eat dried banana as long as it's fed in moderation.
So can rabbits eat bananas? Bananas are safe for bunnies and guinea pigs to eat, but you need to be careful of how much banana you feed at once. Rabbits can get addicted to bananas and will beg relentlessly for more. You, as the owner, will have to draw the line to keep your baby healthy.
Rabbits are individuals and may react differently when you introduce new foods, so keep an eye on your long-eared friend for the first 24 hours. If you want to learn more about what rabbits can eat, click here.
Can rabbits eat guava? This is the first question that should come to mind before sharing this delicious fruit with your fluffy pet. Rabbits are excellent beggars and usually get whatever they want, but as a responsible pet owner, you must make sure your bunny only eats rabbit-safe foods.
Rabbits can eat guava, but only as a treat. Guava fruit has a high sugar content, and the seeds can be a choking hazard. You can also let your rabbits eat guava leaves. The leaves are much safer than the fruit and can be fed daily.
Make sure to read our article on how to feed your rabbit properly. Your cotton-tailed friend needs more than just fruits to stay healthy.
To get back on track, let's look at a few details you should know before feeding your rabbits guava.
Definitely, but it should be fed as a treat. You should take a few precautions when feeding guava to your rabbits. Guava is rich in sugar, and the seeds can be a choking hazard. Baby rabbits should never be fed guava since their sensitive digestive systems aren't ready to handle the sugar content.
Guava, also called common guava, lemon guava, or apple guava and scientifically referred to as Psidium guajava, is an evergreen shrub or small tree that produces safe fruit for rabbits to eat. Keep in mind, like all fruits, guava is only a treat and should not be fed as a staple food source in your rabbit's diet.
Fruits are generally very high in sugar. Overfeeding fruits can cause dental problems, weight gain, digestive upset, and joint issues in rabbits. Excess amounts of sugar cause bad bacteria in the digestive system to multiply out of control, leading to diarrhea, bloat, and other stomach problems.
Don't get me wrong, guava is still safe for rabbits, but only if fed in the right amounts. The general rule for feeding fruits is one teaspoon of fruit per kilogram (2 pounds) of body weight two to three times a week. This rule also applies to guavas.
Here's what you should know to safely prepare and feed guava to your rabbits:
It is best to feed a rabbit guava with a yellowish-green color. This color indicates the guava is ready to be eaten but not yet overripe.
Unripe green guava is too hard for a rabbit to eat and may damage its teeth or cause choking and digestive system problems like blockages.
Overripe, yellow guavas, on the other hand, are very high in sugar, which may lead to diarrhea, weight gain, stomach upset, and, in the worst case, gastrointestinal stasis (GI stasis).
It's also very important to stick to feeding organic guava if possible. Pesticides are very dangerous to bunnies. This brings us to the next point...
If you can find organic guava, you will need to be extra diligent when preparing this fruit for your rabbits. Bunnies are very sensitive to pesticides and may get very sick if they eat guava covered in dangerous chemicals.
Make sure to properly wash your guavas in lukewarm water to remove any pesticide remnants. This goes for both organic and other guavas. (rather safe than sorry, right?) I would even go so far as to use a mild dishwashing soap to make sure all the pesticides are gone.
Cut the guava into four quarters. If you want to avoid the choking hazard posed by the seeds, you can remove the seeds. Depending on body size, your rabbit should be able to eat one-quarter safely.
If you have a very small breed like a Netherland Dwarf, you will need to adjust the portion further to avoid overfeeding on guava. If you're feeding a fruit salad-type meal, make sure to adjust the amount of guava to accommodate any other fruits in the meal.
Remember the general rule for fruits: One teaspoon of fruit per kilogram (2 pounds) of body weight two to three times a week. This goes for all the fruit together, not just the guava.
This is the most important step. When introducing any new foods, feed only a very small amount. Observe your rabbit for 24 hours after the introduction.
If you notice any signs of diarrhea or pain, stop feeding guava immediately. If the symptoms don't go away after a week or seem to get worse, contact your veterinarian immediately.
If nothing happens after the initial introduction, you can continue to feed this fruit in its correct proportions.
Not all parts of all fruits are safe for rabbits to eat. Fortunately, the guava is completely safe, but you should keep a few things in mind.
Guavas contain many healthy nutrients that will help your rabbit stay healthy. Some of these nutrients are:
The leaves of the guava tree are more beneficial to your rabbit than the fruits. They are high in fiber and low in sugar, making them an ideal rabbit treat. Guava leaves are quite tough, which will help with keeping your rabbit's teeth and gums healthy. You can also feed leaves more regularly without any negative effects.
Remember to take care when introducing this food since rabbits have sensitive stomachs and don't always do well when changing diets. If your rabbit isn't used to eating leaves, do a slow introduction with three or four leaves and then wait 24 hours to see how your rabbit reacts. Guava leaves can be added to your rabbit's regular feed as a supplement.
The branches of the guava tree are not rabbit-safe. They are extremely hard, which means they will damage your rabbit's teeth, get stuck between the teeth, and can cause choking and stomach upset. Too much fiber from these branches can cause diarrhea in your rabbit and may potentially cause internal damage and bleeding - Nobody wants that!
To be safe, avoid giving your rabbit guava branches. Rather, keep to the fruits and leaves as safer alternatives.
The seeds of guava are not toxic to rabbits. Just make sure you don't feed them on their own. Seeds from guava fruits can be a choking hazard. Rather be safe than sorry!
If you can, rather feed the skin of the guava, or even skip the fruit completely and go straight for the leaves. Unlike fruits, guava leaves are much healthier for bunnies and can be fed regularly without any stomach upset.
The skin of guava is the healthiest part of the fruit, at least for bunnies. It contains the least amount of sugar and plenty of fibre. Your cotton-tailed friend will thank you for occasionally adding guava skin to its daily food since they love a sweet treat every once in a while.
So, can rabbits eat guava? These fruits are definitely safe for your rabbit to eat, and if fed in moderation, it is also quite healthy. Make sure you take the necessary precautions to avoid stomach problems and other risks. Every rabbit is different, so do keep an eye on your bun-bun when you introduce this juicy treat.
If you'd rather not let your furry friend eat guava, you can try banana, melon, mango or kiwi fruits as alternatives. Remember that bunnies can't just eat guava, they also need unlimited hay, rabbit pellets, vegetables, and leafy greens to breed healthy stomach bacteria.
As a final farewell, here's a cute video of rabbits eating guava from @RabbitvideosUS
If you want to know more about rabbit diets, check out our other articles by clicking here.
Sources:
Are rabbits rodents? You may have been asking yourself that exact question as a pet rabbit owner. Many would argue that rabbits belong to the rodent family due to their ever-growing teeth and their love of gnawing, but is this really the case? Let's find out!
Rabbits are not rodents. Bunnies belong to the order Lagomorpha and are often called Lagomorphs. Rabbits and rodents were once thought to belong to the same group, but the differences in their anatomy have since made it quite obvious that they are not that closely related.
Keep reading to learn more about the differences between your pet rabbits and rodents.
Rabbits used to be rodents, but in the 20th century, scientists reclassified them. Rabbits now share the Lagomorpha order with other Lagomorphs called hares and pikas. If you want to take it further, you can say they belong to the Leporidae family.
To make it even more confusing, the scientific name Oryctolagus cuniculus refers to around 305 breeds of domestic rabbits as well as the European rabbit from which domesticated rabbits descended.
Rodents, on the other hand, belong to the order called Rodentia. Rodentia is the largest order, containing the most diverse mammal species. This includes rats, squirrels, chinchillas, gerbils, and more. Rabbits were originally classified as part of this group until recently when scientists decided they don't quite fit.
So, are they rodents or not? Until recently, scientists believed bunnies to be very closely related to these gnawing critters. Recent studies, however, have proven that they are actually closer related to primates (monkeys and apes) than rodents.
Still a bit confused? Let's look at the difference between the easter bunny and a rat.
With what we know about rodents, our first instinct is to classify a bunny as a kind of rat because of how their incisors grow. Unfortunately for us, this is wrong. Here are a few differences between bunnies and rodents you might not have considered.
Rabbits are gnawing animals, but unlike rodents, they have two pairs of incisors (front teeth), no canine teeth, and very different skeletal features from a rodent. These small mammals eat mostly fibrous plant matter and are thus known as obligate herbivores. Another adaption bunnies have is two peg-like teeth behind their top incisors, which is believed to help them bite through vegetation.
All rodent species, on the other hand, are also gnawing mammals, but unlike rabbits, they only have a single pair of constantly growing front teeth. They often eat both meat and plant material, classifying them as omnivores. There are a few rodents, like guinea pigs and prairie dogs, however, that are obligate herbivores (plant eaters), so being an omnivore isn't a good differentiator.
Besides the single pair of teeth of rodents that never stop growing, there are also other internal differences. Rabbits have a bigger large intestine with a larger cecum. The cecum attaches to the head of the large intestine and houses beneficial bacteria that help to break down undigested plant matter and give them a second chance to absorb those nutrients.
However, rabbits solve this issue by producing special nutrient-rich poop called cecotropes to access these nutrients. This soft black pellet is often eaten directly from the anus and contains a large amount of nutrients the rabbit needs to stay healthy. The process is called coprophagy and is completely normal and healthy for rabbits.
Rabbits do this because they aren't ruminants (an animal with four stomach compartments) like cows and sheep. A rabbit's digestive tract more closely resembles a horse's digestive system.
Rodents don't typically consume their own feces, but there are a few exceptions. Animals like skinny pigs and chinchillas are known to eat their own feces. It's important to note that none of these rodents have a cecum as specialized as the one in a rabbit's digestive system.
Video credit goes to Fufunchis
Most rodents have long tails, short ears, and one pair of upper and lower incisor teeth. They also have hand-like feet and chew on everything they can find.
The gestation period of these critters also varies greatly. A hamster, for instance, has a gestation period of only 16 days, while a capybara can be pregnant for as long as 150 days. Litters also come in varying numbers, ranging from only one to more than 11 babies at a time.
All pet rabbits, on the other hand, no matter the breed, are set on giving birth between days 28 and 36. But, like with all animals, there are a few odd outliers when it comes to some wild rabbits. Another odd thing a female rabbit does is feed her young once or twice a day, whereas a rodent female normally feeds hers several times a day.
Rabbits also have short tails, are generally larger, and have two lower and upper incisors. Rabbit incisors also grow continually, which can be problematic if the rabbit has problems with its upper or lower jaw alignment. When the top incisors and lower incisors don't line up, the enamel won't be ground down correctly. This causes the rabbits' teeth to grow too long and stops them from eating properly.
Rodent teeth have the same problems if the lower and upper jaw don't line up. This is called malocclusion. Dental anatomy plays a big role in keeping pets healthy so better check those teeth.
Quick fact: The incisors of rabbits and rodents have thick enamel layers in the front but not at the back. The difference in the enamel thickness causes the teeth to wear down unevenly, ensuring the incisors keep their sharp, chiseled edge.
Small mammals classified as rodents include mice, guinea pigs, hamsters, rats, porcupines, and kangaroo rats. Rabbits include all breeds of domestic rabbits, European rabbits, and wild rabbits.
| Rodent | Rabbit |
| Four incisors | Eight incisors |
| Mostly Omnivores | Herbivores |
| Order: Rodentia | Order: Lagomorphs |
| Robust body | Stout body |
| Short limbs | Long hind legs |
| Long skinny tails | Short, fluffy tails |
| Short ears | Long ears |
| Oval-shaped droppings | Hard round droppings with soft intermittent cecotropes |
It is very easy to mistake our cotton-tailed friends for rodents. In fact, both rabbits and some rodents look so similar that even scientists got confused and first classified rabbits as rodents until the early 20th century. Let's take a closer look at a few reasons why you might get confused:
Continually growing teeth
Love to chew everything
Burrowing
Short breeding cycles
Give birth to multiple young
Occurs just about everywhere except Antarctica
Have similar predators
Both are great pets for the right humans
So, are rabbits related to rodents? The answer is no. These two families might look and act alike on the surface, but they aren't the same. If you get challenged, you can say bunnies have longer ears, extra teeth, different paw pads, and a massive cecum for the digestion of plant material they consume as part of their diet.
Pika Family By Renu Pant - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Rodents are omnivores. They will eat almost anything from insects to leafy plants to grains in your pantry. The exact diet will depend on the type of rodent, of course. There are a few rodents that are herbivores and eat only plant matter, such as leafy greens or grains.
Some common rodents include rats, guinea pigs, hamsters, and mice. These generally have a varied diet that mostly includes grains, hay, fresh fruits, veggies, and pellets specifically made for the mammals in question. Some people also commonly allow their rodents to eat some cooked mince without seasoning or other human foods like dry crackers. They also need things to chew on, like wooden sticks, toys, and other hard foods.
Rodents in the wild will eat seeds, fresh grass, leaves, insects, and any scraps they can find lying around. You'll often find that they break into trash bags and consume your leftovers. This isn't a great diet for rodents, but it does the trick.
Rabbits have a diet consisting mostly of fresh grass hay, vegetables, fruits, and rabbit pellets. They should be allowed to eat as much grass hay as they like, but the rest should be limited.
Safe food you can feed your rabbit includes:
Make sure to feed the right amounts to avoid problems with digestion and tooth decay. Also, limit the amount of legumes (Alfalfa hay) you feed unless you feed growing youngsters under six months.
A rabbit's natural habitat will be limited to grass, leaves, fruits, and other plant matter like roots and bark. Their diets will often vary according to the season as different foods become available, unlike pets that always get the same thing.
Rabbits are most definitely not part of the Rodentia group, but it is easy to see where we get confused. Even I made that mistake. Don't feel bad if you also made this mistake. Scientists also still debate the change in classification. So if they aren't sure, then there's no reason to beat yourself up.
For now, if someone asks you, ‘Are rabbits related to rodents?' you can safely tell them no. Our cotton-tailed friends are Lagomorphs of the family Leporidae and have nothing to do with those tiny gnawing critters we call rodents. Bunnies and animals of the Rodentia group may have a lot of similarities, but at the same time, they are very different.
For more information on bunnies, check out our blog ‘Are Rabbits Nocturnal.'
Neither. A rabbit is a lagomorph and belongs to the Lagomorpha family, along with hares and pikas. These cute, fluffy critters might resemble rodents and even marsupials, but they don't quite fit in either group. Scientists believe them to be closer related to primates.
No, rabbits and rats are different species and cannot mate. Their anatomy is completely different, which makes it impossible for them to have babies.
They might. Rats have an impressive sense of smell that will lead them directly to your rabbit's food bowl. Any food spilled or not eaten by your rabbit is a great snack for rats in the area. The best way to avoid this problem is to clean frequently, close up unused food in sealed bins, and ensure not to overfeed your bunnies to reduce waste.
Yes, they have very similar predators. Life in the wild always comes with the risk of being food for someone else. All animals have to eat to live after all.
Are rabbits nocturnal animals? If you haven't been paying attention to your pet bunny, you may think all your cotton-tailed friend does during the day is sleep. This is something I believed for a long time before I had my own rabbits. At first, my belief came mostly from seeing hares out at night.
The truth, however, is that a rabbit is not a nocturnal animal. Rabbits are crepuscular. This means they are most active at dawn and dusk. However, many rabbits adapt somewhat to our human schedules, so you might notice them up and about during feeding time, free roam time, and when you're busy around the house.
Keep reading to learn more about pet bunnies and their nightly rabbit habits.
The answer is no, pet rabbits are NOT nocturnal (meaning active at night), but they aren’t diurnal (active during the day) either, so what are they?
Pet bunnies are something in-between called crepuscular, which means that they are very active just after sunset and before sunrise. This doesn't mean that healthy bunnies won't be active in the day or the middle of the night (I'm sure you know by now how noisy they can be when you're trying to sleep). They're just primarily active during twilight.
Rabbits (scientifically known as Lagomorphs) are prey animals. Being active early in the morning, just before sunrise, and just after sunset naturally gives them some reprieve from diurnal and nocturnal predators. The exception to this rule is cats.
Cats, being the sneaky predators they are, also like to be out and about during twilight. Their eyes are adapted to see in this kind of light, giving them a distinct advantage over many animals.
Many people who own both a pet bunny and a cat will tell you they become super playful when the sun goes down. You might also have a problem with them waking you up for playtime just as the sky lights up in the morning.
Diurnal predators, like foxes, dogs, and people, find it hard to see in low light. Nocturnal predators, like owls, find dusk and dawn too bright for their night vision to work properly, making it the safest time for our cotton-tailed friends to be out and about.
In some cases, your rabbits will decide they want to be nocturnal animals. This is not a bad thing (I'm sure your sleep-deprived brain doesn't agree). Rabbits are nocturnal only when they feel safe. Being in climate-controlled houses away from nocturnal predators means extra playtime for them.
This is another reason why many people think rabbits are primarily nocturnal animals.
Pet rabbits are very adaptable and can adjust their circadian rhythms based on outside influences. As a caring rabbit owner, this means you don’t have to adjust your daily routine to suit your animal companions. Pretty cool, right?
Despite your pet rabbit's crepuscular nature, it will adapt readily to active times and play time that suits us. Rabbits quickly learn that being active during human times means more treats and attention. They are very social, after all. That's why always having at least two rabbits at a time is recommended.
One thing to remember is that pet bunnies get bored very quickly. Having other rabbits and other animals around is a good idea if you don't want to play at midnight. Please pay close attention to your pets to ensure they get along well before you leave them alone together.
Another thing, if you don't want your pets to keep you up all night rattling their cage for free roam time and thumping in displeasure, make sure you have a large enough enclosure to accommodate running, jumping, play fighting, chasing, and unique personality expression. It's important as pet rabbit owners to allow our bunnies to express their natural behaviors and unique personalities even when safely closed up.
House rabbits, being prey animals, also rely on us to help them feel safe even though they are indoors. Fortunately, the only dangers in our homes are electric cables, dogs, and other crepuscular animals like cats and ferrets. If you own other animals like cats, dogs, and ferrets, make sure they can't get into your rabbit enclosure when you're not watching, and please hide those cables somewhere out of reach.
If you have outdoor buns or allow your pets to play outdoors, make sure you build predator-proof animal shelters. This shelter should have a hideaway and a roof to keep out predatory birds and other nasty critters.
Also, consider only taking your bunny out to play at dawn and dusk. Being crepuscular animals means this is the time they feel safest and will be most active. Just make sure to offer plenty of timothy hay and clean water since rabbits rarely stop eating.
By Eltpics
It's common for domesticated pet companions to be active at the same intervals as their humans, even during daylight hours. Mostly, however, rabbits sleep during the day when we're at work. If you're worried, however, try to interact with your rabbit during dawn and dusk. The best time to play is usually in the evening when you are relaxed and not in a rush to get to work.
You'll also be surprised by how schedule-orientated a pet bunny is. If you play with or feed your fluffy friend at 11 a.m. every morning, chances are that your bunny will be awake and waiting for you (quite impatiently, might I add). They love things to be very predictable. Try to do things the same way every day if possible and leave their space the same.
I've noticed my bunnies making grunting sounds at me for rearranging the cage while adding hay or cleaning up their mess. A territorial bunny can be surprisingly vocal and quite violent.
However, the best sound you'll ever hear is a rabbits purr. This sounds very similar to a cat purring but is produced by light chomping of their teeth. Just an interesting fact: a rabbit's teeth never stop growing!
If you ever stray from your normal pattern, your buns will let you know by causing a ruckus in their enclosures. This is especially true if you’re late feeding or letting them out for some fun and exercise.
If they have wooden toys or bowls in their cage, you might see them throwing these items around to get your attention. A pet bunny is great at making noise! It's super surprising for a critter that's supposed to be quiet.
Despite adapting to being diurnal animals sometimes, rabbits are crepuscular through and through.
Bunny in a box by Fren Chartres
There are quite a few critters that prefer daylight over any other time. These diurnal animals include:
Just like daytime animals, there are also quite a few that prefer nighttime. Here are a few examples:
Mother rabbits usually use the twilight hours to feed their young to prevent leading predators to the nest site. The only danger they face during this time is being followed by cats.
Unlike most animal babies, baby bunnies only need to be fed once or twice daily. This allows the mother to return to the nest when safest during the twilight hours. It's very common for female bunnies to be most active during dawn around the nest. This is because their main predators have either gone to sleep or aren't awake enough to interfere with their crepuscular activity.
Rabbits may also be active at different times, which is more common in domestic bunnies. If you have a mother pet bunny, give her lots of timothy hay, round pellets, and other treats to chomp on from the moment her eyes open. Rabbits eat almost continuously, and she'll need all the energy she can get.
Also, remove your buck (male rabbit) if you don't want a second round of babies any time soon.
If your pet bunny is potty trained, you also want to remove the nest box as soon as the babies are old enough. Potty-trained rabbits may start using the nest as a litter box if it stays in their enclosure longer than the babies need.
Consider a pet bunny or two if you want a pet but work long hours. Bunnies adapt to human schedules. This means they'll be ready to give you lots of bunny love when you get home in the evening or early morning.
If you're worried about your pet bunny getting bored while you're away, get a rabbit-safe toy or two. You can also make your own by stuffing a toilet roll with Timothy hay to entertain your pet bunny. Wooden toys that they can chew on are best, however. It helps to keep the teeth in good condition and your furniture safe.
Remember that rabbits aren't Easter gifts unless you're willing to put in the time and effort to care for them. They need their litter boxes and enclosures cleaned regularly and need quite a bit of attention. This is especially important if you have only one pet bunny.
Now that you know that rabbits are crepuscular, you're ready to go out there and prove all the non-believers wrong. The next question you might want to research is if rabbits are rodents. This is another subject many people argue over. Don't worry I've got you covered.
For the answer to that question, click here → Are Rabbits Rodents? (An Animal Identity Crisis)
When are rabbits most active in your experience? Tell me in the comments below.
Happy Hopping!
Between 8 and 11 hours. Most of your fur babies' sleeping is done during midday and midnight hours, but you might see them flop at any point during the day.
Wild rabbits are also crepuscular. They will occasionally be out under the cover of darkness because they feel safer, but they are by far the most active during twilight hours in their natural habitats.
A domestic bunny will flop just about anywhere it feels safe. Wild rabbits will retire to their burrows during the times of the day when some shut-eye is required. Hares you'll find snoozing away in the middle of a thick bush or thicket that hides them from the outside world.
Offer hideaways to retreat to. If your cotton-tailed friends show signs of stress, check the environment around your cages first. Rabbits won’t nap if there’s too much noise and light or if they feel threatened. Moving your bun to a dark, quiet spot will improve their rest.
Legamorphs aren't the only critters active in half-light conditions. Here are some other species you can expect to be out and about as well: